Argentina

This blog post is long overdue. I apologize for not keeping you better apprised of my travel time in Argentina as the country deserves it many times over. I love it here. Buenos Aires is my new ¨If there was another place in the world you would want to live, where would it be?¨ city. It is incredible.


I loved my time in Ecuador and had I picked another country it may not have provided such an eye opening experience. It was amazing to see such an indigenous culture, heart breaking to witness such poverty, and challenging to be such an obvious outsider based on the color of your skin. I am very thankful for all that I learned about myself and life outside of myself while in Ecuador. However, after a month of feeling out of my comfort zone pretty much every minute of the day, it was the perfect time to come to Buenos Aires...and that is why I haven´t left the city, other than a 3 day journey to Iguazu Falls, since I arrived last Wednesday.

The city itself is large, crowded to just the right point, warm and uber friendly. Other than the grubby backpacker look I can´t seem to shake, I blend in alright. People are blonde; brunette; tall; short; blue eyes and brown; usually with a cigarette in one hand and a yerba mate tea, served in a funny little cup, in the other.

It isn´t a city like Rome or Paris, where you could fill an entire week visiting museum after museum. Yet, it doesn´t seem to matter. I have met so many travelers who had planned to stop in Buenos Aires for a few days and always seemed to alter their travel plans to stay a while longer. The neighborhoods are charming, the latin culture is addicting, the peso is reasonable, and the shopping is dangerous.

This city is alive. Their days, by no means, start early. Even Starbucks doesn´t open until 10am, unheard of back home. They eat lunch around 3pm, dinner doesn´t begin (unless you want to dine alone) until 9 or 10pm, and it isn´t unusual to arrive back at home, after a night out, around 7am. They don´t drink to get drunk, that seems to be an American trait which we appear to be widely famous for (and not in a good way), they love their leisure time, parilla (grilled meat, especially steak), Italian influenced gelato, and Malbec wines.

I know the entire city isn´t as rosy as I am painting it, but the boutiquey and bustling neighborhoods I have circled for the last week, Palermo, Recoleta, and San Telmo, are worth writing home about. I have very much enjoyed my time of aimless walking, dinner and drinks with new friends, and people watching from outdoor cafes.

Sharon and Steve, good friends from home, who lived in Buenos Aires for a few years, gave me some wonderful tips, tips which included some fabulous places to dine out. Dashi, some of the best sushi I have eaten. My rating may be higher due to the fact I have been eating rice, potatoes and bad meat for the past month in Ecuador, but I don´t think so.

Dashi is located in the heart of the Palermo Hollywood neighborhood, which seems to house some of the most trendy restaurants in Buenos Aires. Hipsters you are Sharon and Steve! They mentioned if I saw the manager, Adrian, I should send a hello from them both. After asking my server if Adrian was in tonight, I realized I didn´t even need to waste my breath on the question. I should have known the cool cat circling the room, kissing the cheeks of loyal customers, was Adrian. He is tall, very European looking, and an earing in his ear.

The server brings him to the table, I try to explain my situation in Spanish, he of course remembers Sharon and Steve, but then walks away, clearly not sharing the same excitement I was exuding for finding this restaurant and passing a ¨hello¨ from thousands of miles away. I felt a little silly and went back to my perfected dining alone experience.

Adrian reminds me of one of the assassins from the Bourne Identity, smooth and emotionless. Of course he wouldn´t share in my nervous giggles. He instead sends over his nicest glass of Chardonnay and a plate full of yummy desserts. I say thank you a thousand times over. He simply nods, winks, and I exit with a kiss on the cheek. Oh, and a picture, which I said was for Sharon and Steve to not seem like a total dork.

I have met some wonderful people at my hostel, America del Sur. I already mentioned Florence, from Amsterdam, but Sanne as well, also from Amsterdam. The three of us went to Iguazu Falls on Sunday night via bus. By far the longest, but most luxurious bus ride I have ever been on. It was a measly 17 hours, but on a double decker bus with fully reclining seats, showing several movies throughout the night and morning, serving dinner, champagne, and breakfast, not a bad way to travel when it is a fraction of the price of flying.

I sat next to a bunch of guys just out of the Israeli army, touring South America for the next year before returning back to Israel to go to college. They asked each of us meaning behind our names and I replied...uh, I don´t think Alison means anything other than my parents liked it 29 years ago. It seems many people in Israel are given birth names which mean something. As the names are quite unusual and hard to remember, we joked we would instead call them by the meaning behind their name...or their new Indian name - there was Big Tree, Diamond, Small River, and Elmo (because he said his nephew only wants to watch Elmo). I mention them only because I, again, am so grateful to the many different people and cultures I have been able to encounter and get to know. The world is large, but I have now tacked Israel up on the board of places I would like to visit one day. Meet our new friends all the way from Israel.

The next day, Sanne, Florence and I woke early to check out the falls. The scenery and magnitude of the waterfalls are incredible. Definitely worth the long trip up there. Here are some pictures from the day. It is hard to put into words the rush and spray of the water, so hopefully, the pictures will give you an idea.

On our way down to the falls to catch a short tour by boat.

A moment before our boat driver told us to put our cameras away into our waterproof bags and we then drove directly under the falls. I can´t open my eyes in the shower let alone this mad rush of water.

A little drenched, but we made it to the top of Garganta del Diablo, which I believe means Devil´s Throat. Sanne is on the left and Florence in the middle.

At the Garganta del Diablo, Calm waters come together, creating an incredible force of nature as they plummet over the edge, downwards to the water below.

After a day at the park, Sanne and I said good-bye to Florence, who is headed to Brasil, and boarded our bus. We arrived back to Buenos Aires this morning and then I said good-bye to Sanne this evening. I think that is the hardest part of traveling. You become close with people fairly quickly as you are all in the same boat - usually by yourself and on an adventure for one reason or another. The hostel has turned over and I didn´t recognize anyone tonight, so I decided to join the BBQ for dinner and see who I was to meet next.

I am here to stay at America del Sur, leaving on Saturday night to fly back to Seattle. I am not sure what the next few days have in store for me, but wouldn´t you stay?! Meet Federico (on the left). Just kidding, of course I travel for the culture and history found here in Buenos Aires. Federico is merely the reason why I may move here to Buenos Aires.

Can´t wait to see you all soon!

Love, Al